Got a trio of JBL 2226H 15" drivers that I need to either get rid of or use. I don't have time for a major project but if I could make a simple 2-way like an econowave or something similar and maybe just save the last driver for a spare.
So:
1. Make a 2-way party speaker
2. Sell the drivers and put the money towards my PM 90 project.
3. Other
Thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Thanks
So:
1. Make a 2-way party speaker
2. Sell the drivers and put the money towards my PM 90 project.
3. Other
Thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Thanks
You can cross that JBL at max at about 800-900Hz i think, so only a big compression driver like the Faital HF201 in the right horn may go low enough for that econowave style 2 way. The Calpamos design by Humble Home Hifi does something similar (but crosses even lower) with that Faital HF201 in a JBL Clone horn (2830) by P-Audio and a Faital 15BR400 as woofer. Use the JBL woofer in place of that Faital, but in the right cabinet for that JBL and with adapted crossover (dsp or analog).
Otherwise you could sell them, but know they are not that easy to get (at least not in Europe). So you may have regrets when you need them and can't find them. So if you don't use them at the moment, i would store them for a future project.
Otherwise you could sell them, but know they are not that easy to get (at least not in Europe). So you may have regrets when you need them and can't find them. So if you don't use them at the moment, i would store them for a future project.
The PM90 is a Peter Morris design (high output mid - high cabinet) that I am trying to complete when funds are available. This project is my priority.
Actually 15" woofer can have 90 degree - 6db horizontal dispersion to 1.8 khz with some engineering. Peavey SP2(2004) has 1508-8 HESF 15" woofer. The cabinet is trapezoidal, pinched in at the back. The crossover to RX22 CD is 12 db/octaave at 1.8 hkz. I would use a 1.4" CD instead of a 1" as econowave. I can't hear 17-20 khz anyway. The RX22 CD rolls of at 17 khz.
I listen to mine from 11' to 33' away, which allows me to walk around the room without sound noticably changing. My room is fairly dead with carpet, acoustic tile, lots of bookcases, record racks, organs, pianos to break up standing waves.
Wayne Parham's 4 pi speaker uses the 2226h in it's upgraded version. Ported two way.
He'll send you the plans for free if you ask on his website. One of his cornerhorns can also be built with the 2226h.
His crossover is designed to use his horn so the horn would be the only thing you'd need to get from him.
There's lots of speaker building and crossover building articles on the site, too.
I like the 4 pi with the 2226 and the B&C tweeter.
He'll send you the plans for free if you ask on his website. One of his cornerhorns can also be built with the 2226h.
His crossover is designed to use his horn so the horn would be the only thing you'd need to get from him.
There's lots of speaker building and crossover building articles on the site, too.
I like the 4 pi with the 2226 and the B&C tweeter.
Thanks all, especially for 4pi idea, will definitely look into those. I see those kits are over 20 years old now and was just curious about the horn size. Most designs I see today have a horn at least as big as the bass driver...is that horn the best I can do or should I look for something that fits the width of the cabinet? And would a 1.4" CD be a better idea to get down lower more comfortably?
Wayne is pretty sharp guy and he takes horn design very seriously. When he and other horn designers start a conversation about them it goes over my head very quickly. Horn guys tend to be very passionate.
He started manufacturing his own horn about 10 years ago when the off the shelf model that had been used ended production. For whatever reasons he came up with the current model and it's likely the best set of compromises he could design. Would other horn designers pick different parameters? Absolutely. It's always about making the best compromises possible to suit your own priorities. But he spent a lot of time and money to make exactly the horn he thought would be right for his speakers so even if you don't agree with his decisions he gets respect for going to so much trouble.
He's got a lot of info on horn and crossover design on his forum, audioroundtable. Go to the pi speaker section then choose the FAQ. There's a lot of great information even if you aren't interested in his designs. Good info on multiple subs and constant directivity designs, too.
He started manufacturing his own horn about 10 years ago when the off the shelf model that had been used ended production. For whatever reasons he came up with the current model and it's likely the best set of compromises he could design. Would other horn designers pick different parameters? Absolutely. It's always about making the best compromises possible to suit your own priorities. But he spent a lot of time and money to make exactly the horn he thought would be right for his speakers so even if you don't agree with his decisions he gets respect for going to so much trouble.
He's got a lot of info on horn and crossover design on his forum, audioroundtable. Go to the pi speaker section then choose the FAQ. There's a lot of great information even if you aren't interested in his designs. Good info on multiple subs and constant directivity designs, too.
in 2021 I built a pair of 7pi using the JBL 2226H.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...akers-spring-summer-2021.378045/#post-6811326
Horn theory is a darn sight older than that. Wayne understands well how they work and how to integrate properly with the driver below, so my suggestion would be not to second guess someone who knows a lot more about it than you do.
What you need is a good match between directivity of the LF driver and the CD/WG at the xover point, along with good distortion and breakup of both drivers to allow for a seamless match. Wayne's Pi4 does this pretty well.
The Asathor design here is similar in general principles with a similar-ish horn and works well by all accounts.
I've been using similar designs for about as long as the Pi4 has been out. I've also had dozens of 2225/6s over the years (still have half a dozen 2225 I purchased new) and they are a fine driver. There are better newer drivers but you'll spend a lot to better them overall.
Hi Pinholer, Albert from Vancouver. I came across the forum and found your beautiful built. I have a pair of 2226h and want to run them low as you did. Appreciate if you can let me know more. You are welcome to message me. Thanks
I also use the 2225H in my mains:
they're good down to 23Hz, with the aid of a passive radiator.
measured response. The design is based on LaScala, the bass bin is similar, albeit with corner reflectors, bracing and made with 1" BB. They're doubled to the upper horn enclosure, which has had its volume increased by nearly 100% and sealed in the rear. I had intended to do the DJK port mods, but I also had a pair of Dayton Audio 15" passives; (all of the parts had been collected to make a pair of speakers based on the Chorus, but with a 2" solid wood baffle. However the cost of the hardwood and hearing the LaScala drove the change.) So I did some modeling in HornResp and WINISD with the bigger upper cabinet and found that it would extend to at least 28hz, which was more than my goal of 30-32Hz.
at any rate, measurements revealed even more. this is from my most recent session, trying to tune them in with a Thomann T.Racks FIR DSP 408
with Phase alignment, using a quasi-linear filter scheme.